빅월 클라이머 마이크 리베키와 인수봉 등반

 

세계산악인과의 만남

 

*** 마이크 리베키(Mike Libecki) 소개

 - 미국 캘리포니아주 출신의 빅월 클라이머, 솔로 등반 전문가

 - 2007년부터 마운틴하드웨어&몬트레일 선수로 활동

 - 그린란드, 파푸아뉴기니, 아프리카 등지에서 첫 솔로 등반

 - 쉽튼-틸맨 어워드, 머그 스텀프 어워드 등 세계적인 대회에서 수차례 우승

 - 남극의 퀸 머드랜드에서 2달간 머물며 두 개의 거벽을 솔로로 등정

 

Mike Libecki

Big Wall Climber/Soloist

Montrail athlete since: 2007

 

Hometown: Cottonwood Heights, Utah, mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon

 

College Attended: Fresno, Ca. Global University

 

Profession: Father, Rock Climber/Mountaineer, Photographer, Videographer, Writer, Public Speaker, Soloist, Pursuer of Passion, Dreamer of Big Dreams.

 

Favorite Outdoor Activity: Breathing, Looking, Hearing, Smelling, Tasting.

 

Recovery meal after a big day: Sushi. Fresh made organic juice.

 

Montrail shoe of choice and why: CTC. It is bad ass on the horizontal and vertical.

 

Big adventure plans in 2009: Top Secret.

 

Most memorable trip in 2008: East Greenland (100 mile an hour winds) and Antarctica (penguins are like little humanoid-aliens).

 

Advice for the newbies: Death and/or old age is coming, we must live sweet. Pursue passion. Why ration passion? Dream big…..and live (climb) those dreams. The time is now.

 

Read these again and again and again until it is routine and a way of life.

 

Who/where do you get your inspiration from? My daughter.

 

Best State in Lower 48: California.

 

 

What’s your day job?
I guess my day job is the pursuit of being a professional kid! I am a stay home dad and when not trying to win “Father of the Year” the third year in a row, my day job revolves around my passion for photography, video, writing, public speaking, and reciprocal relationships with outdoor companies/sponsors.
등반이 없는 날 낮에는 뭘 하세요?

집에서 주로 딸 아이와 시간을 보냅니다. 그리고 아웃도어 브랜드 및 스폰서와  함께 사진이나 비디오를 찍기도 하고, 글도 쓰고, 사람들 앞에서 강연을 하기도 합니다.

What do you use to sustain your energy while out?
Clif Bar products keep me going. Mentality is the best way to sustain energy; I have found a way to create adrenaline on demand. Organic enthusiasm keeps me going in every aspect of life.
당신의 에너지를 유지하기 위해 어떻게 하세요?

클리프바를 이용하고 있는데, 원할 때 아드레날린을 생성할 수 있는 나만의 방법을 가지고 있습니다. 열정은 제 삶을 이끄는 하나의 원동력 입니다.

What is your favorite part about climbing/adventure? What keeps you coming back again and again?
MYSTERY. A true adventure is impossible without the mystery or some form of suffering. It also comes down to the revealed magic, beauty and power in remote Earth: a polar bear climbing to the top of an iceberg, an arctic owl coming to check out my portaledge, tarantulas and scorpions coming out of cracks, triple rainbows along with lightning and thunder, 100+ mph winds, unique culture and people.… the list goes on.
등반/모험을 할 때, 가장 좋아하는 부분이 무엇이고, 무엇이 당신을 산과 모험으로 이끄는 가요?

그것에 대한 제 대답은 “미스터리”입니다. 진정한 모험은 미스터리 또는 어떠한 고뇌가 없이는 불가능 합니다. 북극곰이 아이스버그의 정상을 오르고, 북극 올빼미가 내가 머무는 텐트를 방문하고, 독거미와 전갈들이 바위틈을 드나들고, 3쌍의 레인보우가 번개와 천둥, 강한 바람과 함께 하고, 독특한 문화와 사람들…이 모든 것이 함께 하는 지구의 신비로움과 아름다움이 나를 이끕니다.

Favorite spot to climb, ski etc?
Virgin Earth, or wherever I am at any given moment…though some are: Antarctica, Baffin Island, Greenland, Madagascar, Venezuela, Papua New Guinea, China, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Yemen, Africa, Russia, Argentina…many wonderful places await!
클라이밍, 스키 등을 하기 좋은 곳은 어디죠?

어디든지 좋습니다. 특히, Antarctica, Baffin Island, Greenland, Madagascar, Venezuela, Papua New Guinea, China, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Yemen, Africa, Russia, Argentina 와 같이 훌륭한 장소가 많이 있습니다.

What layering system works best for you?
It is ever changing with the range of high tech, light, super strong fabrics Mountain Hardwear develops and builds their products with. I find I need much less with the innovative materials, and a lot of times, because of the technology, the layers/outers are super versatile in many different temperature changes.
어떤 아이템이 당신에게 가장 적합하던가요?

고기능성, 초경량의 내구성이 우수한 소재의 마운틴하드웨어 제품이 좋았습니다. 특히 재킷은 큰 온도변화에서 다재다능한 아이템 입니다.

What is one piece of Mountain Hardwear gear that has really impacted your activity?
The EV single wall tents are perfect in the not so perfect world of expeditions where weather is unpredictable and I need to rely on these shelters for not only function and comfort, but for life and death situations.
당신의 활동에 큰 영향을 준 마운틴하드웨어의 한 가지 아이템을 꼽는다면?

EV 텐트는 사느냐 죽느냐의 상황에서 나에게 기능적인 면에서나 안락한 면에서나 최고의 보금자리를 제공해 준 완벽한 제품입니다.

Current Mountain Hardwear gear favorites?
Over the last 12 years working with Mountain Hardwear, I have seen an amazing revolution in their products. I love the Synchro and Alchemy Jackets. The Gelio Pant. EV tents. Nitrous and Hooded Compressor. All Phantom. OUTDRY Technology. Umm, going to need more room to list them all…

최근 사용한 마운틴하드웨어 제품 중 가장 좋아하는 아이템이 있다면?

지난 12년 동안 마운틴하드웨어와 함께 해 오면서, 정말 놀랄만한 우수한 제품을 많이 접해 왔습니다. 그 중 신크로(Synchro) 재킷과 알케미(Alchemy) 재킷을 가장 선호합니다. 겔리오(Gelio) 팬츠, EV 텐트, 니트러스 와 후디드 컴프레서, 그리고 팬텀의 전 제품과 아웃드라이 기술력. 좋아하는 것을 나열하자니 공간이 부족하군요. 

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Bio:
Mike Libecki closes all of his correspondences with the words “Pursue Passion––Why Ration Passion—Dream Big…..and Live Those Dreams—The Time is Now.” This is exactly how he lives his life. He lives with utter optimism, organic enthusiasm and appreciation, after all, death and/or old age is coming, we must live sweet! “It is not simply life, but the quality of this life.” Mike was born near the heart of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in California where he grew up hunting, fishing, and camping with his family, as well as excelling in speed mathematics from grammar school through high school. His childhood life planted the seed for his obsession with an utterly adventurous lifestyle.
마이크리베키는 열정과 큰 꿈을 가지고 지금이 아니면 도전할 수 없다는 신념으로 모든 모험을 경험하고 그의 삶을 영위하고 있다. 그는 긍정적인 사고와 열정으로 점점 죽음이 가까워져 가고 있는 인생을 즐기면서 살아야 된다고 한다. 마이크는 미국 캘리포니아 시에라 네바다 산 인근에서 태어나, 가족들과 사냥, 낚시, 캠핑 등을 즐기며 모험적인 라이프스타일을 즐기며 유년기를 보냈다.

Now in his adult life, Mike spends most of his time as a father to his angel-daughter Lilliana, and traveling to the most remote, exotic and untouched locations on the planet to pursue his passion of big wall and alpine first ascents, traverses, and other offbeat adventures, many of them completely alone to absolute virgin Earth. Libecki has been on expeditions and established multiple first ascents in such areas as Africa, Baffin Island, Greenland, China, Madagascar, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Papua New Guinea, Russia, Venezuela, Yemen and Antarctica on over 30 expeditions. He made the first traverse across the Taklimakan Desert in Western China, also known as the “Sea of Death” by the local people. He’s spent months at a time Soloing first ascents in Greenland, Baffin Island, Antarctica, Africa, Papua New Guinea and China. It has added up to over a year of his life spent on the side of a wall in portaledges. He and a partner spent 8o days completing a major ski and big wall climbing expedition in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. He is currently reconnoitering such virgin lands such as Franz Josef Land, Russia, restricted Africa, Afghanistan and remote islands in the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, of course some other areas are top secret at the moment due to government regulations. Again, The Time is Now and Why Ration Passion?
현재, 그는 대부분의 시간을 그의 딸 릴리아나와 함께 보내고 있으며, 오지의 빅월과 알파인을 찾아 모험을 즐기고 있다. 리베키는Africa, Baffin Island, Greenland, China, Madagascar, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Papua New Guinea, Russia, Venezuela, Yemen, Antarctica와 같은 지역을 30회 이상의 탐험을 하고 있으며, 중국 서부의 죽음의 사막인 Taklimakan을 처음 가로지르기도 하였다. 그리고Greenland, Baffin Island, Antarctica, Africa, Papua New Guinea, China에서 수 개월 동안 머무르며 탐험을 하기도 했다. 그는 1년 이상을 벽에 매달린 텐트에서 보내기도 하였다. Queen Maud Land, Antarctica에서는 80일 동안 일행과 함께 스키와 빅월 클라이밍 도전을 하기도 하였다.

When Mike is not exploring and photographing the ends of the Earth, he is a full time father. You can also find him presenting one of his uniquely entertaining multimedia presentations about his adventures year-round. Mike’s favorite part of the gift of ultimate reality called life is being a father. You will often see many colors on his freshly painted toe and finger nails, he is an expert at playing princesses and dress-ups, attends piano, and swimming lessons and is his daughter’s soccer coach. Libecki just won ‘Father of the Year Award’ from his daughter’s school. He keeps his life running full-circle with other passions such as photography, film, writing, public speaking, product design and testing, and believing in his dreams (not 99%, 100% minimum). He currently lives near the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon in Utah with his daughter, dog, cats, pot-belly pig and rabbits.

Grants & Awards: Two time winner of the Shipton-Tilman Grant/Award from W.L.Gore & Associates, a two time winner of the Mug Stumps Award, two time winner of the Lyman Spitzer/American Alpine Club Award, The Polartec Challenge Award, Athlete Ambassador of the Year Award from Clif Bar, The Sharp End Award from The Access Fund, Mountaineering Fellowship Award from The American Alpine Club, The Banff Centre Mountain Grant, The Helly Hansen Mountain Award from The American Alpine Club, Father of the Year Award at his daughter’s school twice.
마이크가 탐험을 하지 않는 기간 동안은 항상 가족과 함께 보낸다. 그리고 사람들 앞에서 그의 모험담에 대해 강연을 하기도 한다. 하지만 그는 아빠로써의 삶이 가장 행복하다고 말한다. 딸과 함께 발가락과 손가락에 메니큐어를 바르고, 인형을 가지고 놀기도 하며 피아노, 수영, 축구 교실을 딸과 함께 참가하기도 하여 딸 아이 학교에서 “올해의 아버지 상”을 받기도 했다. 또한 그는 사진을 찍고, 글을 쓰고, 강연을 하고, 제품 디자인과 테스팅에 참가하는 등 다양한 활동을 하고 있다.

Personal Highlights:

To see my daughter happy, healthy and how much I learn from her and my commitment as an amazing father. To have the opportunity to be an amazing father and have such an amazing daughter.

Winning Father of the Year Award. Being healthy. Solo expeditions and solo first ascents to Greenland, Antarctica, Baffin Island, Papua New Guinea, Africa, China, and Russia. The solo trips are especially special to me. All of my expeditions to remote Earth I am very proud of and honored to make special connections with my partners, and meet wonderful humans all over the world. The gift of life. Embracing appreciation, enthusiasm, and optimism. Living in the now.

상기 내용은 중복된 내용임.

Career Highlights:

#1 life highlight, being a father to my angel daughter.

천사 같은 내 딸의 아빠로서의 삶이 내 인생의 하이라이트다.

All of the expeditions over the years that have spanned to all the continents and that I have come home safely. The solo expeditions have been the most challenging and rewarding by far. Though my #1 career highlight is the wonderful opportunity to meet so many people locally that I work with and the amazing people culture I have had the honor to meet and learn from.

Mike Libecki closes all of his correspondences with the words “Pursue Passion—Dream Big...and Live Those Dreams—The Time is Now.” This is exactly how he lives his life. Mike was born near the heart of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in California where he grew up hunting, fishing, and camping with his family, as well as excelling in speed mathematics from grammar school through high school. His childhood life planted the seed for his obsession with an utterly adventurous lifestyle.

Now in his adult life, Mike spends most of his time traveling to the most remote, exotic and untouched locations on the planet to pursue his passion of big wall and alpine first ascents, traverses, and other offbeat adventures, many of them completely alone. Libecki has established multiple first ascents in such areas as Baffin Island, Greenland, China, Madagascar, Kyrgysztan, Venezuela, and Antarctica. He made the first traverse across the Taklamakan Desert in Western China, also known as the “Sea of Death” by the local people. He’s spent two months at a time soloing first ascents in Greenland, Baffin Island and China. Most recently, he and his partner spent 8o days completing the first major ski and big wall climbing expedition in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. He is currently reconnoitering such virgin lands as Franz Josef Land, Russia, Uzbekistan and remote islands off the coast of New Guinea, some other areas are top secret at the moment. He just arrived home from the very border of China and Kyrgyzstan and is starting to pack for his next big expedition back to Queen Maud Land, but this time, completely alone to satisfy yet another solo extravaganza.

When Mike is not exploring and photographing the ends of the Earth, you will find him at a local Mountain Hardwear dealer giving one of his uniquely entertaining multimedia presentations. He spends two months a year on the road sharing his adventures, and they are well worth catching. Mike lives near the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon in Utah with his daughter, dog, cat, and rabbits.

어느 루트로 등반 할 것인지... 토의중

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 등반을  마치고 백운산장에서 막걸리 한잔씩...